Sacred Ink

Tattoos are a craze all over the world and since as far back as the ninth century, Thailand has been unknowingly at the forefront.  Incorporating elements of Buddhism, Animism, Brahmanism, and Hinduism “yantra” tattoos are believed to have mystical and sacred powers, and more and more of us are taking the trip across the waters for some new ink.  

Yantra tattoos, traditionally known as Sak Yant or Sak Yan, have been a sacred craze in Thailand for years and years with monks, mothers, and children all getting inked. Once seen as the mark of gangsters or even assassins, the tradition has become increasingly popular. Permanently embossed onto your skin by a trained monk with the repetitive strike of a bamboo needle, these tattoos were originally tattooed onto warriors seeking protection and strength in battle, often covering their entire bodies from head to toe in magic symbols to prevent knives and arrows from piecing their skin. A trip to Thailand today, and it is clear that yantra tattoos still hold a precious purpose and it is  not uncommon to see men and women covered in these sacred tattoos.  Nowadays, without the need to battle, they are believed to give the wearer magic powers associated with healing, luck, strength, and protection against evil.  

This, is why many travellers find themselves sitting in line for hours in the hope of getting a travelling token that will last a lifetime. The best place in Thailand to receive a Sak Yant tattoo is a Buddhist temple called Wat Bang Phra. It’s located about 40 minutes West of Bangkok and here you will find the most famous Yantra practicing monk in Thailand, Master Luang Pi Nunn. For hundreds of years the temple has been a pilgrimage site for Thai people wanting to receive the protection of a magic tattoo and its majestic aura can be felt as soon as you walk amongst its ornate temples and colourful yet endearing statues.   

Before arriving at the temple, there is a small, gift shop mimicking stall whereby visitors buy cigarettes, orchid flowers and incense sticks. These costs a mere couple of pounds in total, and are offered to the monks as payment for the tattoo.  An unusual offering, yet one that is then recycled and resold again in the shop to sustain the upkeep of the temple and the livelihood of the monks.  This in effect means that the monk who embellishes you is doing it for free, with the motivation of continuing the sacred tradition.  

Master Luang Pi Nunn will do around 50 tattoos a day, so it is advised to arrive at the temple early in the morning in order to beat the bombardment of others. As you approach the front of the que, it is instantly apparent that it is not going to be like getting a tattoo in your local town. The area is far from sterile, the monks implements sprawled across the stone floor, and the bamboo stick that is used to repetedly pierce the skin is sparingly, but not always dipped into a fluid in between human canvases. A grubby bucket is full of ‘ink’ which undoubtedly has been used for the last week. The type of ink used varies depending on who your monk is, and it is somewhat of a secret. However, it is thought to contain Chinese charcoal, snake venom, palm oil, and even human remains! This, along with the unsterile environment is enough to put off a lot of people.  As the tattoos have been done in this way for over 2000 years, No machines are used to create a Sak Yant design. The tattoos are engraved into skin with a long metal spike or bamboo sharpened to a point, and every jab contaminates the needle with blood. As explained by Specialist nurse Jade miller, this  “highly increases the  a risk of contracting Hepatits B or HIV, and  although you may know other people or travellers who have had one and been fine, it doesn’t mean you will be too.”  

 When your turn approaches, the monk will decide upon a position of the body to have your sak yant, and after reviewing your aura, pick one of many ancient Buddhist symbols.  Your skin will be held taught by the two people behind you in the queue, and the monk will jab away ferociously for ten minutes until your symbol is etched upon your skin, forever.  

Emily Peska, Professional UK tattooist and owner of a yantra tattoo, does not regret her decision to get inked, however like many other travellers wasn’t aware of the dangers until it was too late.“I tattoo people every single day and I often do cover ups. These are usually over ex-lovers names, botch jobs or things like stars and hearts that were once all the rage but nowadays a stamp of regret. Although these were mistakes, they weren’t life threatening ones. I got my Sak Yant tattoo on a whim after meeting someone in my hostel also getting one. I thought it sounded cool, I mean it was so cool and as a tattoo lover I couldn’t say no. It was only after the buzz of getting it had worn off that I actually realised that it could have negative repercussions. Don’t get me wrong, I love my tattoo, it means so much to me, but I wish I had known before I decided to get one what could go wrong. I have had tests since, and I didn’t contract anything, but I imagine some people out there have, and maybe some don’t even know it. “   

Addressing soon to be travellers around this issue, and everybody seems keen on the idea until the subject of snake venom is discussed and the unsterile setting. Some are adamant that they won’t get one, but many are strayed towards yes by the overall serene experience. Sam Merrel, owner of many tattoos, including one which covers half his skull, expresses “ why would you say no to an experience like that? I don’t know anyone who has had one, until you told me about them I had no idea it was happening, I’m genuinely mesmerized by the idea of it. I want one right now.”  

The choice to have a memory etched onto your skin is something that many people wouldn’t say no to. The experience is magical and it is a once in a lifetime chance that will not only enlighten your time travelling, and your body. Although the safety of these tattoos may be questioned  the long running history of them, and the mass of travellers and Thai people committing to them suggests that they are safer than we might think. If a monk thinks that you hold negative feelings towards the tradition, he will refuse to tattoo you.   There have even recently been rumours that Master Luang Pi Nunn has now swapped to a tattoo gun due to his wrists weakening with age, and although this takes away the preciousness of having the tattoo traditionally done, means that the process is a lot safer and sterile.  

Photographs by Cedric Arnold